The French love pasta. Each year, 500,000 tons are consumed. Every Saturday noon, through its series “Pasta così! », 20 minutes teaches you how to cook your pasta well or introduces you to an original recipe. Today, we’re heading to Nantes where the artisan pastry chef Henri Refuto has acquired a good reputation with his specialty: domed ravioli.
Forget everything you think you know about ravioli: in the Refuto workshop, at the Nantes MIN, pasta is treated as “haute couture”. Everything is prepared by hand, meticulously, with only “ultra-fresh” products, in limited quantities. “I make the ravioli that I like. They are unique, often magnificent. They are generously rounded, the stuffing is covered by a minimum of dough, and this fine dough appears transparent after cooking. For me, these are the criteria of excellence for a ravioli,” explains the man who hates the “flatness” and “brilliance” of industrial ravioli.
“No one makes dough like that anymore”
Influenced, because of his family heritage, by Neapolitan and Provençal cuisine, Henri Refuto is also willingly inspired by Asian pasta. But it was by meeting an Italian artisan who makes his ravioli in the traditional way that this former professional in the banking sector and sports communication had, one day, the click. “I found it wonderful. With hard work and meaning,” he explains.
He equips himself with a rolling mill, a printing screw press, a bronze guide and launches out. “There is no one in the world who makes dough like that anymore. It is a work of precision and repetition. You have to be focused, not count your hours. This is my psychotherapy. »
Seven varieties each week
Sold in sheets of twelve on the markets, including the covered market in Talensac, these ravioli come in seven different varieties each week: Comté, goat cheese and rosemary, Parmesan, tapenade, chanterelles, pumpkin, Saint-Jacques, Serrano… “It all depends on the seasons, my desires and the producers I meet. I do a lot of testing before finding the perfect formula,” says Henri Refuto.
Cooking is not to be neglected, it is even written roughly on the neat packaging given to each customer: “one minute thirty seconds maximum in boiling water, drain and it’s ready”. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and a little parmigiano.