No no, don’t believe that this blog is turning into sewing blogit doesn’t seem like that, but I have plans to talk to you about something else soon…
But it is clear that rotten weather in January + health restrictions pushing us to stay at home = I occupy my free time behind my sewing machine!
I told you in my previous article, I sewed a lot at the beginning of the year, and here is one of the seamstresses that I preferred to do, even if it gave me a hard time.
Wait, let me tell you all about it!
We were driving home from our New Year’s Day, and I was distractedly looking at my emails, when I came across a Makerist ad… Immediate crush on this incredible Hamburger Liebe knit jacquard in 100 % organic cotton. I liked the colors, the patterns, EVERYTHING and Makerist had the good idea to offer a reduction. Neither one nor two, I rummage through my patterns of sweatshirts made, and I set my sights on Alice, already sewn last year. I love its loose sleeves that are nicely gathered at the wrists, as well as its very simple cut that doesn’t require a lot of fabric. However, I didn’t really want a V-neck, so I told myself that I was simply going to modify the basic pattern.
On paper, it seemed easy, except that I wanted to do a little too much… By skipping the facing of the neckline, I managed to fit my pattern in a very small 1m20 of fabric, with even a little rab for the bands of wrists and bottom of the sweatshirt that I chose to sew on the back for more contrast. It’s the jacquard knit that makes this possible.
But once sewn, I found that the neckline was actually a little too wide for me, and not finished enough. So I sewed a band all around the collar, always with the same fabric, on the contrasting back. I did it in a hurry, without really measuring, and I sewed a strip that was too long… Suddenly it was yawning. On Instagram, a subscriber told me the rule of proportions for necklines: you have to multiply the width of the collar by 0.8 and pull the band a little when you sewso it really prevents it from gaping, and it hugs the neckline well.
Except that I calculated in my head, and instead of shortening my band by 16cm, I only shortened it by 1.6cm.
Of course, my third version of this damn collar was still yawning!
So I unstitched / shortened / stitched for the 4th timeand luckily, this time was the right one!!
(yes, I spent more time unsewing this sweatshirt than sewing it, but you know what seamstress grandmothers say: “ doing and undoing is always work!“) (and they are right!)
In truth, I don’t regret a single second spent on this book: I learned a lot of things, and I have the sweatshirt I really wanted, in a minimum of fabric!
Here is the result:
It is pep’s as I like, in my favorite colors, and it is cut exactly as I wanted! Its little extra? Absolute comfort, the quality of this organic cotton jacquard knit is incredible.
Practical information : the sweatshirt / pullover pattern Alice is available in the Fibremood paper magazine number 12 or as a single pdf download.
The pattern grades from XS to XXL. I sewed my sweatshirt in M.
Modifications made : I cut out the round neck bust part in duplicate. The bottom band of the sweatshirt was a little tight on my previous sweatshirt, I replaced it with the bottom band of the Chouette Kit raglan sweatshirt. I added a band at the collar, 20% shorter in length than the initial neckline.
I bought my fabric on the Makerist website, it’s the Hamburger Liebe Darling Things Pasta jacquard knit (it exists in other colors) and used a special jersey needle, my serger, and a double needle for finishing the hems and visible seams.
♥︎ ♥︎ ♥︎
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