A Bordeaux pizza maker shines in a global competition with an ancestral recipe

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And it is even more so since the master of the place took part in this sort of pizza world championship. Finishing in the top six, out of around forty participants, during the French qualifications, had already been a performance. Spending four days in Naples – “where my father had two pizzerias when I was a child”, he says – was an experience, among 336 competitors from 45 countries and involved in five different disciplines.

And to rank eighth in the one he chose – the pizza mastunicola – out of around sixty competitors is a real satisfaction. “Especially when it was my first participation and I’m only 30 years old”, assesses Antonio de Fabbio.

“The secret is the dough. It must be very digestible and the edge must be inflated »

Alright, and what exactly is pizza mastunicola? “It is the oldest recipe of which we keep track. It is assumed that it was designed at the end of the Middle Ages. Only in Naples is it still made. We do not use tomatoes, since it is an ingredient which was imported from America and which only entered the confection in the 18th century.e century. Only lard – not everyone likes it – pecorino, basil and pepper. It’s actually a focaccia. A poor man’s dish. »

But suddenly, the simpler it is, the more complicated it is. The fewer the ingredients, the more it’s the pizza maker’s touch that makes the difference. “The secret is the dough. It must be very digestible and the edge must be inflated. You only need to add yeast, flour, salt and water. And do not be mistaken in the dosages. Do not put too much yeast. »

Antonio de Fabbio has certainly had time to get his feet wet. At 14-15 years old he was already helping his father. And before opening La Tradizione, he worked for some time for the pizzeria Masaniello, another institution of the genre in Bordeaux, also created by Neapolitans.

Fabien Cottereau/SOUTHWEST

These Olympics, he would not necessarily have participated on his own. “It was a friend who registered me there without my knowing it. But I don’t regret anything. I met lots of people. I made friends in Brazil, England, Japan or the United States. We exchanged our experiences. We compared our ways of making the dough, the flours we use, but keeping our little tricks to ourselves, of course! »

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